Friday, September 30, 2005

Harry Potter et le Prince de Sang-Mêlé



Well, you probably wouldn't have credited me as a reader of Harry Potter books, but in fact I've read all of the Harry Potter tomes apart from the last one which I'm currently about half way through. I started reading them to my daughter when she was about four. We had to catch up on about three books, and then ever since we have been reading them as and when they appear in the bookshops. The last copy was delivered to our house in Paris at 1 o'clock in the morning (not my arrangement!) by a neighbour who had been into the centre of Paris to a special Harry Potter launch event at the WHSmiths on Rue de Rivoli.

The '20 Minutes' news magazine that I pick up free every morning at the station had a big cover advert today for the forthcoming 'Harry Potter et le Prince de Sang-Mêlé' which is due out in the shops tomorrow, the 1st October. It's almost as big a deal in France as in the UK. The large publisher, Gallimard, owe 7% of their total book sales to Harry Potter. 17 million copies of earlier volumes have been sold in France and Gallimard have ordered a first edition run of 2 million copies.

The cover of the French book is somewhat more sombre than the British version: Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. It has almost an academic quality to it. Perhaps that is a reflection of the seriousness with which the French treat magic, mythology and all things astrological. French bookshops will often have a large section devoted to these subjects, really quite a contrast to the more science-oriented British bookshop. In the French version, Harry goes to school at Poudlard rather than Hogwarts. I guess 'Hogwarts' doesn't invoke much in French readers. I wonder how the snotty French character translates in the French version? Perhaps she becomes German... Or even English!

Thursday, September 29, 2005

Visiting Champagne No. 2: The Cave

Following our visit to the cathedral and the centre of Reims, we got back in the car and headed out to the edge of the city where a number of Champagne producers are situated. Our host wanted us to visit the Pommery champagne factory which has a very large underground 'Cave' (the French word for a cellar where wine is stored). Factory doesn't sound like quite the right word, but I don't know what else you would call it, since it's constructed in the style of a factory, albeit a somewhat ornate one as the photograph below shows. The silver lorry is most likely delivering grape juice from one of the villages in the hills surrounding Reims.



Visits to 'Caves' have become a notable tourist attraction for the Champagne region, and probably they have been welcoming visitors for as long as they have existed. The Pommery brand of champagne became famous at the end of the 19th Century under the directorship of Veuve Pommery (Widow Pommery) who seems to have been a canny promoter of her brand. There is also the well known Veuve Clicquot as well, directrice of another competitor. The Pommery operation reeks of large advertising and promotion budgets. The welcome area is a vast converted storehouse decked out with weird 'art advertising' stuff such as a large picture of a bulldog 'laying' a 'golden egg'. This rather strange interest in faecal remains extends further than the foyer, as I'll mention later.



You descend into the 'Cave' via a long staircase, the steps of which have been worn into trough shapes by the countless visitors. The cellar is vast, a system of 18 km of tunnels connecting pyramid shaped holes that rise to the surface. These holes are actually Gallo-Roman quarries that were widened as they descended downwards. Our friend told us that, when it is about to rain, mist starts rising in the cellars because the build up of condensation in the air and the narrow opening at the top of each pyramid-shaped quarry prevents the normal escape of damp air from inside.

Pommery have been boosting their sales by selling metallic blue, pop-sized bottles of champagne to be drunk with a straw. The idea is to appeal to the young and trendy, rather than the middle-aged, 'weddings and baptisms' set. To help promote this youthful image, they are sponsoring young artists to produce art works that utilise their products. These art works litter the 'visitors' route' and provide a less than scintillating counterpoint to the gloomy spaces of the 'Cave' that they occupy.

The cave itself was, for me, more interesting. I love gloomy underground spaces: rows and rows of dusty jeroboams with names of visitors written on them through thick, congealing dust. Odd little telephone cabins for the wine man to call up base and let them know that a balthazar has just blown its top. In case you don't know, these strange names I am referring to are the different titles given to various magnitudes of oversize champagne bottles.



Widow Pommery introduced a system of naming in the cellars based on her global champagne conquest. Every time she succeeded in having an agent in a new corner of the globe, she put up a plaque in her cellar to commemorate the fact.



She also commissioned an artist to carve large bas-reliefs into the soft limestone rock of the cellar walls. He was also obliged to follow the champagne theme. The picture below illustrates a bacchanalean feast...



So there we have it: Champagne, a prestige product that isn't sure it wants to be a prestige product any more (well, maybe a bit) since, in this day and age, fun products shift more units. For me, Champagne has become synonymous with business entertainment, something that I abhor, and hence the taste of Champagne has become somewhat devalued for me. Maybe my experiences in the fields picking grapes tomorrow will change that?

Oh, and that poo thing. Well, there is a temporary exhibition in the 'Cave' which features numerous, very large models of fossil poo, or 'coprolite' to use the technical term. The sculptures are made of a material that is like non-fossilised poo and the artist plays on the supposed similarity between coprolites and the Venus figures created by stone age man some 15,000 years ago. I told you it was all a bit odd. There's a picture of a coprolite and a Venus figure below to show you what I'm talking about.





Maybe there's something in it? Who knows...

Wednesday, September 28, 2005

Begging problematics

One of the most comfortable positions for begging is lying on your back, head propped up with pillows, begging arm laid flat out on the floor, hand cupped to receive change. This is the position adopted by one of the beggars I pass evey morning. There is something majesterial about this position. It certainly beats grovelling on your face. Infinitely more insousciant.

The only problem with this supine method, however, is that when a begging cue starts to form, someone can come and stand five yards in front of you and catch all your passing trade. Lying on your back, what can you do about it? Zilch.

Tuesday, September 27, 2005

Nature: For or Against Us?

The first person to comment on this blog was Nick whose 'Ganesh and Ghandi' blog I have read with interest over the past few months. He has not posted for a few weeks now after writing a piece about the Louisiana floods, obviously very upset about all that has gone on. His article is thought provoking and links to other interesting articles that ask some very difficult questions.

Are we being led by the nose by a misdirected media (ignoring issues of global warning, the seriousness of the destruction) and big business (exploiting political expediency for a quick buck) to some kind of apocalyptic destruction scenario?

Or is this just man forgetting the power of nature and paying the price?

I suspect that it is more the latter than the former. I think man (speaking very generally) has begun to believe he has a technological superiority over nature. He believes he can affront nature. The more the President (by the President I mean the power structure of America) has thought he is safe in the hands of industry, of his military, the less he has thought of the American land and the latent power within it, the need to upkeep that vast domain and to treat it with respect.

So, it's a question of losing touch.

This position will evidently change.

We cannot manage nature in the way that we manage technological projects (be they the construction of oil refineries or military invasions). For nature, we have to be prepared, and to take a long view.

And we (city dwellers, our lunches doled up in office refectories) should not forget that 'real' nature has a positive side also. There is a poem called 'Our Hold on the Planet' by Robert Frost (who often wrote about the relation of man to nature) that puts the right glimmer of optimism on the question:

There is much in nature against us. But we forget:
Take nature altogether since time began,
Including human nature, in peace and war,
And it must be a little more in favor of man,
Say a fraction of one percent at the very least,
Or our number living wouldn't be steadily more,
Our hold on the planet wouldn't have so increased.

There is optimism here, albeit guarded. A necessary optimism.

Monday, September 26, 2005

Visiting Champagne No. 1: Reims Cathedral

So, this last weekend we were away in Champagne, helping with the Vendange. Well, 'helping' is rather a long way from the truth. Our hosts were quite keen that we had more of a learning experience than a sore back experience. But since we weren't there for long, and there was so much to see, we were quite happy to go along with their planning. In fact, they went out of their way to accommodate us at a time when they were extremely busy, so we were very fortunate.

It's going to take quite a bit of finger-tapping to get down all the thoughts and experiences of the last weekend, so I thought I would write a few paragraphs each evening this week.

To recap a little, my friend OR is married to the daughter of a Champagne producer. He spends a lot of his weekends over in the village where his in-laws live near the city of Reims (pronounced Rance and written Rheims in English), helping out in their vineyard. After visiting the village for the wedding of our friend last year, a very traditional affair, we managed to get invited back to see the Vendange (grape harvest).

We drove over on Saturday morning and met up with our friend's wife, ER at the hotel in Tinqueux where we were staying. She had kindly asked us if we would like a tour of Reims. We began with the cathedral whose immense facade bears down on you as you drive towards it.



Up close, however, it is beautifully carved with figures and exotic beasts. The scultures adorning the doorways are extremely large, such as this smiling angel who stands just to the right of the main door, welcoming visitors inside. I have never seen anything like this figure before. She seems positively brimming with happiness. Our friend told us that she is well known and showed us the gold medallion around her neck which is engraved with the angel's smiling face.



The interior of the cathedral is a vast, lofty space. Many of the stained glass windows were destroyed during the 2nd World War and were later replaced. One of the most famous is the high window created by the Russian emigre artist Marc Chagall in the 1970s together with his wife and son who had set up a stained glass workshop in Reims. The window is very typical of Chagall's work, and yet remains very suited to its setting. The photograph below details just a part of the whole window.



I belive this Chagall window was paid for by Champagne producers. Another of the windows was also also replaced by the champagne growers in the 1950s, this one depicts many of the little villages where the growing of Champagne grapes is the central fact of existence, including the little village of Sacy that we would be visiting the next day.

Saturday, September 24, 2005

Eating Clay

Something I ate on Thursday made me violently sick in the small hours of Friday morning. This is the second time that this has happened to me while living in France. All Friday I was feeling weak and lifeless. I rang the boss to say I wasn't coming to work in the morning. I also rang the doctor. She said she was booked up all morning and that I would have to ring again after lunch. I did ring after lunch and she gave me an appointment for 6 o'clock in the evening. It always amazes me how busy doctors are! Actually, I don't rate this doctor very highly, but all I needed really was some evidence that I had been ill for work.

As I expected, (see my previous post on French medicine junkies) she prescribed me three different kinds of drug, one in case of nausea, one in case of vomitting etc. which I was supposed to put under my tongue. You need only buy these if the symptoms come back, she said. But what about the discomfort of my digestive system or my loss of energy? Not a word about that at all.

When I got home, I started delving in our medecine box and pulled out some sachets of 'Smecta' a product precribed to me by a different doctor the last time I had the 'gastro' bug. 'Smecta' is a much more sensible treatment. Basically, it is a sachet of smectite clay that you dissolve in water and drink down. It tastes like clay as well.

Clay has been used as a intestinal cure for centuries. I am reading a book at the moment called 'Magie d'Argile' (Magic of Clay) by Michel Beauvais (published by Flammarion). It is a very interesting summary of the importance of clay to human societies and includes a whole chapter on the healthy properties of clay.

The use of clay for medicinal purposes is known back to Mesopotamian times (as evidenced by cuneiform tablets), but Pliny seems to have been one of the first to write about the virtues of clay from the mountains around Naples as a cure for stomach and intestinal ailments in his 'Natural History' of the second century A.D. By the Middle Ages, clay was a standard medicine in the apothecary's cabinet, considered almost a miracle cure.

Clay is absorbative, analgesic, anticongestive, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, detoxifying, bacteriacidal, healing, remineralising and re-equilibriating. As well as a cure for digestive upsets, it can be used as a poultice over wounds.

Today, the most commonly used clay is 'bentonite' which according to this article is a trade name used for montmorillonite clay. Montmorillonite, as the name suggests, was first identified in France. The name Smectite is sometimes also used. Bentonite clays are quite restricted in their occurrence. They are weathered volcanic clays that were formed during the Cretaceous period. When dissolved in water, they expand to act like a sponge that can soak up toxins.

I had a couple of portions of clay yesterday, together with some packets of salts to help me rehydrate (also not prescribed by my doctor). I feel a lot better today.

Wednesday, September 21, 2005

The Revelation (adapted from Tristes Tropiques)

One day they were lazy degenerates
the next, when we returned,
our oxen laden as a caravan,
they were a revelation:

huge painted jars, deerskins
illuminated with arabesques,
delicate carvings that introduced
a forgotten panthaeon.

Three years later, I saw Don Félix again.
The bourgeois parlour of his fazenda
was now hung with painted skins,
native pots in every corner.

The Indians had become his suppliers,
whole families welcomed, objects
exchanged. How far, I wondered,
did such new intimacy go?

Was a bachelor able to resist
the charms of young Indian girls,
half-naked on feast days,
their bodies laced with black scrolls?

Be that as it may,
Don Félix was killed in '45
by one of his new-found friends,
victim not so much of the Indians

as of the mental confusion
into which, ten years previously,
he had been plunged
by a party of young anthropologists.

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

La Maison Fournaise



There's a lot happening in Paris at this time of year. It's because September is about the only time when half the population is not on holiday, and there is still a bit of strength left in the sunshine.

Today we went to a dance that was being held in the open air beside the River Seine at La Maison Fournaise, not far from where we live. La Maison Fournaise is a well known restaurant, part of which is converted into a gallery of Impressionist art. There is also a gallery of contemporary art just across the courtyard.

This building was the setting for Renoir's famous painting Le Déjeuner des Canotiers. A canotier was a straw-hatted Sunday boatsman of the type you see flexing his muscles in the painting. The setting is preserved much as it was at that time, apart from the new office block development just across the river...

My wife dressed herself and the children up like 19th-Century characters and they had a great time prancing around to Rhumbas, Tangos and Charlestones. That's them in the photo. I'm thinking they might be worth a few Euros the next time someone shoots a period drama in Paris...

Sunday, September 18, 2005

Settlers

We went to the house-warming party of some friends who have settled in France. They live in a little town to the west of Paris called Verneuil. It seems to be a town that is changing rapidly, with quite a lot of building work going on and a slight air of being unfinished. There is a property price boom going on to the west of Paris which encourages people firstly to buy, and then to look further and further afield in order to find something.

Our friends have found a very nice 1930s house made of brown and yellow stone. It is built on three floors so gives them plenty of room. Apparently there was not too much competition to buy it, as it needed quite a bit of work, which is expensive if you source from local builders. They, however, brought a team of eight builders over from the UK for a few weeks.

The house has a garden that is nearly a hundred metres long. Along the wall at the side there are vines, and at the end is a little vineyard. The previous owner, an old gentleman, used to crush his own grapes in a trough and then put them through a wine press that is still standing in the garden. It is worked by hand with a large green handle like a wheel on the side. We had a peep in the outhouse which our friends have thought about turning into guest accommodation, once the chicken coop on the side has been knocked down. On a dusty shelf, an old photograph of a little French girl peeped out of the shadows. She was seated in a garden seat, dressed in the style of a hundred years ago, the garden around her crowding in to form a cosy bower.

The building work on the house went quite well. A lot of the house was overflowing with junk that they had to chuck out, particularly in the basement which is now converted into living space. One room down there used to keep 500 bottles of wine, bottles of ancient home-made Calvados (French apple brandy) and pickled preserves circa 1972. While the builders were clearing this lot out, they decided to drink some of the brandy. One of the builders drank too much and then picked an argument with the foreman. A brawl ensued and the builder got punched, fell over and cut his head. He ended up being carted off to hospital.

There were lots of friends at the party and the French neighbours were there as well, mixing in. Quite a number of the guests work for an American newspaper that publishes out of Paris. Our friend works there as a copy editor. They were a nice bunch, amusing, mainly in a self-deprecating way. It was interesting to hear about their work, how they get material ready to go to print in the morning with 9pm and then 11pm deadlines. One of the journalists was standing next to a bottle of champagne as it was being opened with a loud POP! Oh my God, he said, grimacing, I thought I was back in Kosovo...

Maternelle

As I mentioned in my blog the other day, our youngest daughter has not been sleeping very well for the last two weeks. Tonight she has already got up three or four times and we haven't even gone to bed yet. It seems to be related to her starting at our local maternelle (French nursery school) which is just down the road. At the moment, she is doing three-and-a-half days a week.

Today, we were invited along to the school with all the other parents to listen to a presentation from her teachers. She has two, H and F, who both seem to be very nice young women. They work on different days of the week, which must be a bit disruptive, but I guess that's the way it is. When we arrived, a couple of minutes late, all the other parents were already there, seated like good little children on miniature plastic chairs and listening intently to the headmistress who was lecturing them on filling in their contact details on the 'in case of emergency' form.

She handed over to a young man who was standing in the corner. In fact, we had met him before at the pre-start open day which we attended a couple of months ago. He seems to be the stalwart of the parents association or 'FCPE' which is a means for Mums and Dads to keep a close eye on what is happening in the school. They can, for example, make unannounced raids on the lunchtime canteen and sample the delights being offered to the children which they then judge by filling in a questionnaire. If the parents don't like what they find, the school has to find a new catering company. It seems that the parents also keep tabs on some of the finances of the school, but this may just be the spendings of the 'co-operative' to which we are expected to donate 25 euros for the purchase of books etc.

So, after we had been encouraged to joing the FCPE, we then had a talk from the teachers. First, we were asked not to let the children come to school with objects in the pockets such as toys, mobile phones etc. They were, however, to be encouraged to pick up natural objects on the way to school such as pine cones and horse chestnuts which would be made into art works. The teacher then started to enumerate things that she would be obliged if we could bring along to the school to help out. After about the third item, everybody started scrabbling in their pockets for pens and paper. The list included: photocopier paper, scrap drawing paper, transparent covers for books, cereal boxes, boxes of paper tissues, bulbs for the children to plant in the gardens, old computers, music CDs of Beethoven's 9th Symphony, Stravinsky's Rite of Spring, Saint-Saens' Carnival of the Animals...

There seemed to be a lot of stress on organisation, routine, getting to understand 'the pattern of life'. We were asked to make sure that the children arrived at school alert and ready to learn, not sleepy eyed with their dodo hanging out of their mouth. A 'dodo' is the bit of cloth most of these three year olds are still carrying round with them. There is a box at the door of the classroom into which the children are encouraged to drop their 'dodos' when they start the day.

Once in class, the children have to work out at which 'atelier' (workshop table) they will be doing their activities. To find out, they have to consult the 'Camelias' on the wall. Each 'Camelia' wears a different coloured dress which has the photos of five of the children pinned to it. They find their own face, note the colour of Camelia's dress and then head off to the table with the same colour tablecloth. This seems to be a good way for the teachers to remain in control, separate troublesome children etc. Most of the activities are in the morning. After lunch, the children go into a sort of domitory full of little beds and sleep for about an hour-and-a-half, which seems quite a long time to me.

When the teacher had finished her presentation about 'la vie quotidien', a video was rolled into the classroom and we all got to watch some footage of our children in action. This was quite an insight. We noticed that our daughter was the only child who had been allowed to carry her 'dodo' into the classroom. While the teacher read a story, she sat quite remotely, scratching her ankle. While the other children joined in with the actions of a French song, our daughter resolutely failed to budge. While the other children stepped over the hurdles, our daughter tried to pick them up like dumbells...

It seems she may be showing a bit of resistance to the new regime. This apart, the other children seem to accept her okay and the verbal levels are not so advanced that there is much of a barrier between them. They are all so little, there is not much interaction between them yet anyway.

But she is clearly feeling quite insecure at the moment. She doesn't want to go to bed on her own, she wants the light left on, she has to have her dodo and her spotty leopard with her at all times... Above all else, she doesn't want to speak 'bonjour'. When I try to speak to her in French, she says: 'No Daddy, not bonjour. Say hello'. 'Say hello' means 'speak English'.

Saturday, September 17, 2005

Alphonse Allais: Complete Poems



Few English or American poets seem to make it into French. A visit to the nearest large French bookshop will generally turn up only a handful of poets in translation. The last time I looked there was John Keats, W.H. Auden, Seamus Heaney, Allen Ginsberg and Walt Whitman. What is the basis for being translated? Do you have to be a great pillar of the literary establishment, or does your work simply have to be not too difficult to translate?

French poetry turns up in translation in Britain every now and then. There is a very good overview of 20th-Century French Poems edited by Stephen Romer which was published by Faber in 2002. A poet who didn't make it into this anthology, although he was still writing until 1905, was Alphonse Allais. Was he just not modern enough for the anthology? Or was he too difficult to translate? Well, I doubt if he was even considered, but that would have been an error, because he was an innovator, albeit an amusing one.

Allais is known, foremost, as a humorist, a writer of 'pensées' and 'anecdotes'. Here is a small selection that I have translated:

"He was Norman by his mother and Breton by a friend of his father."

"He's a well-raised boy", said the yokel, pointing to his son at the top of a poplar tree.

"Chexpire"... What an ugly name! Sounds like an Auvergnat who just died.

God has acted wisely in placing birth before death, otherwise, what would we know of life?

Coffee is a beverage that makes you sleep when you haven't had any.

Allais came from Hornfleur, a port on the Normandy coast, also home to the modernist composer Eric Satie (another eccentric and original character). There, you can visit the Musée Alphonse Allais, the smallest museum in France.

A new collection of Allais' poetry has recently been released in France by Gallimard. I think this is quite significant for Allais' reputation because the Gallimard list includes all of the foremost 20th Century poets such as Mallarmé, Eluard, Appolinaire and the like. The book is subtitled: Complete Poems, and entitled with two lines of verse as follows:

Par les bois du Djinn
Parle et bois du gin

This is one of Allais' 'holorime' poems. The title is in fact a shortening of a longer poem that goes as follows:

Par les bois de Djinn, où s'entasse de l'effroi,
Parle et bois du gin ou cent tasses de lait froid!

(By the wood of the Genie, where the terrors crowd,
talk and drink some gin or a hundred glasses of cold milk)

When spoken, of course, the lines of the French verse can be made to sound exactly the same. It is only with slight changes of intonation and phrasing that their correct meaning is revealed. This style of verse is completely original to me. I don't know of any equivalent in English. It goes without saying that it is untranslateable, as would be many of the other experiments in verse that he tested.

The different sections of the book come under headings such as: 'New Effects', 'Scientific Poetry', 'Poetry Under Hypnosis', 'Pastiches and Shapeless Poems', 'Ad hoc Poems', 'Songs', 'Fables' and 'Fables of Aesop the Younger'. The titles reflect his interest in experimenting, as he once did with chemicals in the back of his father's shop, and of telling humorous stories.

He was a prolific writer, penning his work for reviews of the day. The measure of his achievement was that he wrote nearly 1700 "tales, stories, fables, couplets and cocktail recipes".

Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Anthropology

Everything her society might have attained
was written on her body. From the nape
to the buttocks, from the forelock
to the thigh, she lay down,
thinking warmly of that golden age,
a time of arabesques and scrolls,
the masks of past remains.

Hieroglyphics without meaning stop
wherever they attain their own significance,
appeals to go on being interpreted.
They are maps where there are no roads.
Mysteries that haunt us, or disappear
as she pulls on her clothes.

Talk the Talk

I was in a blind panic last night because I had to give a talk today at a conference. I prepared the slides about a month ago but in the time since I have been working all hours on a different project and have managed to displace most of the knowledge concerning the talk from the front of my brain, where it was easy to access, to some broom cupboard located in a little used depot at the back of my cerebral cortex.

The result was, when I tried to go through what I was going to say on my own last night, I was stumbling along so badly that it took me twice as long to plough through as it should have done. That's to say, forty minutes instead of twenty minutes. If that had happened today, it would have been a disaster.

It wasn't all down to forgetfullness. Part of the problem was fatigue due to lack of sleep. My daughter, who is 3 years old, has started in the French maternelle (nursery) school this week and this disruption has overturned all her previous patterns and made her feel very insecure. As a result, and quite naturally, she is clinging to my wife and refusing to go to sleep in her own bed. Her refusal to go to bed is, I think, a way of trying to win back some control of her life. Even when we finally get her to go to sleep (after coaxing and a large beaker of milky Ovaltine) she wakes up at three or four in the morning and comes and wakes us up.

Anyway, last night we managed to get our heads down at a reasonable time and fortunately, although my daughter did still wake us up at 4am, it wasn't too disruptive and by the morning I had regained at least half my normal functioning capacity (compared to less than a quarter the evening before.)

When the time arrived to give my talk this afternoon, I still felt unconfident, but thanks to my wife assuring me that everything would be okay, I was feeling more positive. I also deleted a number of slides from the talk to make it more manageable.

Speaking in public is a strange thing. It is almost like stepping into another dimension, slightly offset from reality. Some automatic function takes over in the brain and it feels as if you have blinkers on either side of your head that allow you to focus on the information that you have to transmit, rather than the several hundred people that are sitting in front of you. I don't know if there is a special name for this state, but there should be.

I have experienced this feeling in an equally profound way when reading my poetry from memory in public. I did this last year, reading six or so fairly long poems from memory. During the whole time I was entirely focussed on the words flowing out of my brain. I had little conception of what was happening around me. The most I could do was perhaps make some hand gesture as if I was somehow in charge of the situation. In reality, I was in thrall to the task in hand of emptying my brain of what it had somehow composed. I had become a mere speaking machine, my consciousness of self suppressed so that I might make the contents of my brain publically visible.

Somehow, in this odd state, I managed to give my talk without hesitation, and more or less on schedule. It was just as well I deleted the extra slides because they would otherwise have ruined things. This experience reminds me of the blog I wrote a while back about fractured reality. By not thinking too much about what I was doing as I gave the talk, my brain was able to skim over the surface of all the scattered fragments of knowledge that made up my presentation and weave them into a fluid continuity.

What I'm trying to say is, it went okay. Phew!

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

The Carrot Festival



Today we celebrated the annual 'Fête de la Carotte (Carrot Festival) in our local town, Croissy-sur-Seine. The town celebrates carrots because most of the houses around here have been built over former agricultural land. Everyone dresses up in orange, and there is a number of prizes for the best 'carrot chariots'. The theme this year was 'The Sea' which explains why these little 'carrots' are riding along in a boat. There was also an extremely tall lighthouse carried on a barrow by a bunch of scouts and guides. It was so big it hit an overhanging tree and collapsed close to the finishing line.

The parade (or 'defile' in French) ends in a small park by the Seine where everyone sits down at dozens of tables and chairs and eats a plate of steaming beef and carrots. There is live music, bouncy castles and a lot of stalls manned by local clubs and organisations. It's a way of helping new arrivals to make new friends, renew acquaintances and get involved in the community. And it's good fun too.

Wednesday, September 07, 2005

Don't be so Sure, Saussure



I came across this quotation the other day in a review by Jean-Paul Poirier of a book called The Coming of Materials Science by R.W. Cahn.

"I also enjoyed being told of the disparaging remark of the Swiss geologist de Saussure about Sorby, the founder of metallography, who was the first to look at petrographic thin sections under a microscope in transmitted polarized light. Saussure thought it perfectly ridiculous "to look at mountains through a microscope".

At first I thought this must be incorrect because the Swiss geologist Horace Benedict de Saussure, pictured above, was an early founder of Geology and was dead by 1799, before the time when polarising microscopes for study of crystals and rocks had been developed.

Henry Sorby wasn't born until 1826 and didn't start to develop petrographic microscopy - the microscopic examination of very thin sections of rock - until 1849. He did this by grinding rock to very thin slices which he was able to examine under a microscope in normal and polarised light. Sorby, in fact, stated that it was OTHER PEOPLE who had QUOTED Saussure's comments (not necessarily about Sorby as far as I can tell) who had attempted to disparage his efforts:

"In those early days people laughed at me. They quoted Saussure who had said that it was not a proper thing to examine mountains with microscopes, and ridiculed my action in every way. Most luckily I took no notice of them."

Notice he does not specify which Saussure he is talking about. In fact there were two well known Swiss Saussures, for Horace was the father of Nicolas-Théodore de Saussure (14 October 1767 - 18 April 1845), a renowned chemist and student of plant physiology who made seminal advances in phytochemistry.

According to this site, Nicolas was Professor of Mineralogy and Zoology at the University of Geneva, as was his father Horace. One of his notable geological discoveries was the chemical identification of magnesium carbonate rock samples collected by his friend, the geologist Dolomieu. He named this rock 'dolomite' after Dolomieu and, ever since, the well known range of mountains from whence the dolomite samples came have been known as The Dolomites.

Nicolas Saussure was much older than Sorby. Sorby was 19 when Nicolas died, and so it is unlikely that Nicolas could have actually made a disparaging comment about Sorby. Nicolas understood very well the work of his father and had climbed with him in the Alps and helped him with his experiments. I think Nicolas may be the source of the remark about it being ridiculous to look at mountains under microscopes, since it was during his lifetime that the developments in microscopy were occurring, but I could be wrong.

Sorby would have probably been familiar with Nicolas de Saussure's work since Nicolas made breakthroughs in the study of photosynthesis while Sorby and George C. Stokes were the first to describe the chemical nature of chlorophyll.

Those early mountain explorations of Saussure and Son are referred to in this very interesting article by Jean Nardin about Mary Shelley's novel 'Frankenstein'. The novel was written during the Shelleys' stay in the Alps around 1820.

Nardin's paper suggests that Mary Shelley may have based her character Victor Frankenstein, inventor of the renowned monster, around a certain type of scientific Alpine mountaineer that typified the 18th Century. The most famous of these was Saussure. Saussure, born in Geneva in 1740, was a Professor at the University of Geneva. He was wealthy, like most scientists of the age of the enlightenment, and ranged freely as a naturalist, geologist, mineralogist, and physician.

Visiting Chamonix in 1760, Saussure offered a reward to the first man to climb Mont Blanc and followed the route himself in 1787, accompanied by his valet and 18 guides. At the top of the mountain, the group made a large number of experiments and tests, as was the custom of such early Alpine scientists. Saussure was also an inventor of instruments including an 'electrometer', a 'solar thermal collector', a 'cylindrical panorama' and a 'hygrometer'. According to this site Saussure actually introduced the word 'geology' to science.

Nardin notes that there are differences in the way Victor Frankenstein's relationship to nature are structured between the first version of the novel and the later rewrite. In the first version, Victor's view of nature is corrupted by his learnings in science. When he is young he is able to appreciate the sublime character of the mountains, but later, when he has finished his university studies, he is unable to look at the mountains in the same way, but instead wishes to discover their secrets.

In the second version of the novel, Victor Frankenstein is always unresponsive to nature. It is more by nature of being a male that he is unable to appreciate the beauty of the mountains. Mary Shelley's novel amounts to a criticism of such types who want to 'dominate', 'penetrate' and 'unveil' the secrets of nature as essentially 'macho'.

The irony of this longing to discover the secrets of nature is that in doing so, Victor creates a monster whom he leaves to wander in the mountains. He is thereby creating a situation which had, until the end of the 17th Century, only existed in folklore, that is to say, the traditional fear of mountains as the home of dragons, giants, demons and trolls.

But to return to Sorby, this site suggests "the advances (in petrographic microscopy) constituted a true technological revolution which have nearly no more recent equivalent excepted the remarkable invention of the electron microprobe by Castaing 150 years later. Thanks to the remarkable technical progress made during a few years by some major microscope manufacturers, like Nachet in France, Leitz and Zeiss in Germany, Reichert in Austria, the determination of the optical characters of minerals became one of greatest scientific adventure of the 19th century."

You may wonder what relevance all this has, apart from being a potted history of early geological science. What if I tell you that Horace had another son, Henri de Saussure, who was a well known biologist and that his son was Ferdinand de Saussure the Swiss-born originator of structuralist ideas in philosophy that were highly influential on the anthropological thinking of Claude Levi-Strauss. Ah yes, now it's all starting to make sense...

So is it ridiculous "to look at mountains through a microscope"? No, not at all. A friend of mine studied for his doctorate by riding a donkey over the Andes and whacking a chunk of granite off the mountainside every few miles. These fieldwork samples were shipped back home in a couple of trunks and became the main source of his research for the next couple of years, primarily through microscopic study. He did, literally, develop his ideas about the formation of the Andes down a microscope.

Saussure could not have imagined why this was possible, because he did not know about the Andes. His experience was of the Alps, a chain of mountains formed by the compressive uplifting of once buried marine sediments. The Andes, by constrast, are a chain of mountains formed by volcanic activity coming from within the earth. The mechanism is completely different.

There is indeed much more to be gained from fieldwork analysis of structure in the study of Alpine compression than there is to be gained from microscopy. For the Andes, the opposite holds true, all the history of the mountain development is 'memorised' within the crystal structure of the rock itself, at a minute scale that can only be appreciated with a microscope.

Thus Saussure's comments (whichever Saussure that was) merely demonstrated his limited range of experience and serve as a useful lesson in many areas. When we try to generalise about any subject we run the risk of showing only the limitations of our experience. If we were to extend this thinking to poetry, for example, we might now wonder if the critical apparatus developed in the appreciation of one type of poetry were completely unsuited to the appeciation of poetry arising from a completely different source (a poetry of magmatic eruptions as opposed to a poetry of plate compression).

The critic, or indeed the poet, should not disregard this other poetry just because its origins are unfamiliar and difficult to fathom. The other poetry may be ignored, but this does not mean it does not exist, or that it is in some way inadequate. No, it is simply different, and in reality, another aspect of the bigger picture.

Monday, September 05, 2005

French Particularities No. 6: La Rentrée



A little while ago I wrote about the institutionalised character of the August holiday here in France. After such a long break, September begins with a kind of flourish called 'La Rentrée' which starts with the children heading back to school, but applies equally in business where Rentrée parties are held to get people back in the mood for work, and to introduce new arrivals and recent recruits to their colleagues.

If you pick up a newspaper or a magazine at this time of year, it will also be full of the 'new wave' of whatever it is that happens to interest you, whether that be new make-up trends, new clothing designs or La Rentrée Littéraire which is the most important moment for pushing out new literary creations and typically finds the front pages of magazines covered with the faces of dashing or pouting scribblers promoting their first novels.

The little photo above was part of a display that we noticed on somebody's windowsill in a village close to where we live. The sills were lined with pages from a child's exercise book showing writing practice and there were little blackboards with messages in chalk and models of teachers and students sitting at their desks. A nice gesture, and a sign of the respect with which people generally treat each other in France that it was simply sitting there in the street, untouched and unmolested.

Sunday, September 04, 2005

Witches' Brew



After seeing the result of Hurricane Katrina on the news over the past week, I've been thinking back to when I visited Louisiana on a brief geological excursion on Saturday 9th March 2002. I've typed up the following from the scruffy notes in my jotter.

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We drove in a coach from Houston to Morgan City on the Gulf Coast and stayed in a white, clap-board hotel. I was struck mainly by how flat and featureless the place was. A title for a poem came into my head: 'Calibrated to Flat'.

All the way there: long straight roads and a sign board every so often advertised a crawfish restaurant or a tyre-changng place. That evening we ate in a salad bar type restaurant. An 'eat-as-much-as-you-can' style joint with a great view of an enormous car park.

The next day, we visited Six Mile Lake. This lake used to be some eighty kilometres long, but is now just a couple of kilometers in length. It has been filled during the last hundred and fifty years or so by sediment diverted from the main course of the Mississippi River in 1839. This was no accident, but rather an attempt to prevent flooding of New Orleans.

Our guide told us a bit about the Pleistocene history of the Mississippi, which is recorded by the fill of a huge valley cut and filled during and after the last ice age around 10,000 years ago. The sediment-filled valley is up to 450 feet deep and 70 miles wide. The Mississippi is a huge river, fed from all over the North American Craton from the Rockies in the West to the Finger Lakes in the North. In the last ten thousand years or so, the sediment it carries has built a delta which is about 300 miles wide.

We stopped at Six Mile Lake. One of the first things that our guide told us about was the hurricane threat to New Orleans. He called it 'a witches' brew'. Of a total population who live in the flood zone, there are 200,000 who don't have cars and a further 100,000 who are disabled. People are told, apparently, to keep a chainsaw in their attic in readiness for the floods that may come when a hurricane driven tidal wave drives water back up the Mississippi and bursts the 5m high levees. Being trapped in your attic with flood water rising through the house is clearly a situation to avoid. He also mentioned the 'killer mold' which can infest homes when they become flooded. The Stachybotrys Mold releases toxigenic spores that are potentially dangerous to humans, especially if they enter an air-conditioning system.

"In 2000", he said, "there were three major loss-of-life threats in America: the World Trade Centre, The San Andreas fault zone and a New Orleans flood. the World Trade Centre is no more, so now there are only two."

We drove down to Patterson where we would take a small motorboat out to the Wax Lake Delta, an embryonic delta that has been created by man following the cutting of a canal some 400m wide from Six Mile Lake to the sea, a distance of about 20 km. Since 1973, the delta has built out around 5 km into the Gulf of Mexico.

Signs outside shops advertised: "Beer Gas Bait" or simply "Tackle". Our guide pointed out to us that Cypress trees indicate areas that might potentially flood. The trees were hung with a pale green lacey plant called Spanish Moss, a curious epiphyte plant, very simple and ancient. It was once used as material for stuffing the seats of Model-T Ford cars. Moping black cormorants sat on the cypress tree branches.

Our guide continued talking about the hurrican threat, telling us that when a large, established delta mouth bar is drowned, a system of barrier islands is created at the outer edge of the delta lobe. These barrier islands out in the Gulf of Mexico can be maintained, but it costs money. Geologically they are unstable, because the delta lobes are slowly sinking due to compaction. Barrier islands, however are "the last line of defence from hurricanes".

Driving in the bus, we passed a sort of compound containing a load of little brick houses, very basic, all the same design. "These houses are all below sea level" remarked our guide. I glimpsed a group of black children playing on the gravel track.

We arrived at Wax Lake Landing, passing trailer homes on piles of bricks. There were several 4x4 pickups, Dodges and Chevrolets, parked on the grass and a couple of white men were just then backing their Fishmaster boat into the water before loading up with guns, dogs and beer. Off for a wildfowl shoot.

A US stars and stripes flag was trying to fly, but had got caught up in a cypress tree by the river. I walked out along the little jetty, and when I looked down from the side, I could see the carcass of a small dog lying in the mud, its yellow ribs poking through matted fur. A plume of silt was sweeping along the riverbank in the brown water and, close by, a dredging boat lay rusting like burnt paper, the bottom of its dredge bucket corroded to intricate lacework. In the eroding riverbank, between layers of chocolate-coloured mud, I noticed a layer of brilliant white shells being slowly revealed.

We got into the boats and headed off, passing underneath a vast pipeline carrying oil, which was strung over our heads on great metal poles and tension cables. The river was incredibly wide, grey and featureless. Drab beds of reeds and scrubby trees rose up on either side, puntuated here and there by a rusted boat, a hunting hide or a white egret out searching for dinner. The flat-bottomed skiff bumped along on the choppy waters. I had already got myself sunburnt standing for an hour by the lake earlier in the day. Now the sky was looking threatening. We crossed the Intracoastal Canal, another huge waterway, this one a 1000 miles long. It allows large boats to pass along the Gulf Coast without ever heading out to sea.

As we neared the coast, we were engulfed by mist, then we landed on one of the delta mouth bars, climbing out onto firm ground with reeds and scrubby trees. We drilled a core down into the delta mouth sediment, which was only a few metres thick, surprisingly, considering the size of the river. It seems that it shallows significantly as it nears the sea. The sediment was chocolate brown again, with thin bands of plastic clay.

When we got back into the boat, it started to rain, and by the time we got back to the landing, I was soaked to the skin. As soon as we had landed, the rain stopped and I was able to strip off some clothes and wring them out. We ate some sandwiches, watched the craft being hauled from the water, and got back on the bus which would take us back to Houston.

The road back was long and straight. On the way there, we stopped at a Crawfish restaurant. I don't remember what I ate. I was tired, sunburnt and wet. Crawfish I expect.

Hints for French Linguists

When you come to France, it is extremely important to have French lessons, even if just a few to help you cope with understanding the bills that will, inevitably, one day start falling on your mat.

The problem with the French you get taught is that it is not the same language people speak. Forget about the imperfect tense, the conditional etc. and concentrate on the 'future proche'. If you don't know what that is, find out quick, because that is what you will be using most of the time. An example would be: "Est ce que tu vas manger?" which translates as "Are you going to eat?" Basically, it's the present tense of the verb 'aller' teamed with the infinite of the verb 'manger'. It's absolutely essential in conversational French and I don't remember ever being taught about it in all the eight years of lessons that I had before I came to France.

If you're arriving in France, what you don't really need is a huge dictionary. You can't carry it around with you after all. Much better is a small phrase book such as Essential French published by Usborne. The phrases are grouped into various situations you might find youself in, and the cartoon book design makes it easier to study when you've got a few minutes to spare on the train.

Another useful book I found is called: Vocabulaire Anglais Courant by Jean-Bernard Piat, which is published by Librio and costs a mere 2 Euros. This book is similar to the first one I mentioned, since the words and phrases are grouped by subject matter. However, it is aimed more at the kind of vocabulary you might need for reading about current affairs in a newspaper. It was actually designed for French people wanting to understand English, but it works just as well in reverse.

Finally, when you're really getting to understand what's going on around you, there is a French popular dictionary called: Le Dico Français/Français by Philippe Vandel and published by Le Livre de Poche. Unfortunately, this one doesn't seem to be current anymore, but it is a really good guide to all the 'unofficial' French words. As the name suggests, it's a book that defines French words for French people. Just goes to show what a complex, codified language French is.

This is a book, of course, for people who already have a basic grasp of French. It is divided into sections with titles like: 'Comment parler le Langage de l'Entreprise', 'Comment parler comme à Neuilly, Auteuil and Passy' (i.e. like a rich Parisian), or 'Comment parler comme un flic'. A 'flic', as everyone knows, is a cop.

This is the book you need for starting to understand that language is not a universal blueprint, but a means for segregating people into the various groups of: those who will get on really well, those who will get on averagely, and those who will not get anywhere at all.

Aunt Ooh-ah

We just finished having lunch: baked beans on toast topped off by pink-iced 'Bob the Builder' Muffins cooked by the girls.

The Bob the Builder Muffins were absolutely foul, so I went and got the box to read what was in them. The usual list of chemicals and preservatives.

On the packet it said: 'Suitable for Vegetarians'. "That's a bad sign already", I said, as I walked off into the kitchen to put the box back in the recycling.

My wife, taking my comment far too seriously said: "the cake's we normally make are suitable for vegetarians."

Being in the kitchen, I couldn't hear what she had said properly. I meant to ask her: "Aren't or are?" But it came out in a French-English language jumble: "Aren't ou are?"

Quickly, my eldest daughter piped up:

Aunt Ooh-ah
went to the Spar...

That's as far as she got, but I'll help her to finish her little song off:

Aunt Ooh-ah
went to the Spar
to buy some Bob the Builder cakes.

But when she got there
the shelf was bare
and so she had a lucky escape.

Saturday, September 03, 2005

Pleasure and Pain

Leaving the house this morning, I was locking the gate at the end of the drive, when I heard a 'clunk, clunk' and a mutter of 'Merde!'

Turning around, I saw the postman underneath the trees on the other side of the road. He was astride his bicycle, swearing because his letter paniers had just fallen off.

It's my fault: all those internet books I keep buying. One person's pleasure is always another person's pain.

French Particularities No. 5: The Open Neck Shirt

Among the British professional classes, dress code for the office is fairly uniform. People either wear a suit and tie or at least a jacket and tie with smart trousers. In corporations, this dress code usually applies right down to even the lowest clerk. Women will often wear a skirt and jacket suit as well, and the wearing of trousers by women is sometimes frowned upon. I don't really know where this formality comes from, but I do know that it is deeply entrenched. Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that a lot of schoolchildren in the UK wear grey, somewhat non-descript uniforms at school.

The French, on the other hand, never ask their children to wear uniform to school. Instead, at about this time of year, there are a lot of advertisements plastered in the metro trying to persuade parents to gear their children up in bright Benetton colours with a polychrome back pack to match. So maybe this is why the majority of children evolve into sartorially relaxed adults.

This really surprised me when I first started working for a French company in the UK. There was I, dressed in jacket and tie, having meetings with French employees from the main office in France who would turn up in open neck floral shirts and pleated slacks. It was quite bizarre.

I would still say the open neck shirt is pretty much the norm in France, especially when you leave Paris and go to an office in the countryside where people universally shun the tie. If you wear a tie to an office like this, you would certainly receive comments and funny looks.

In Paris, the situation is slightly different. Quite a lot of people wear suits (costumes) and ties (cravats). Why is this? I think one reason is the invasion of anglo-saxon corporate ideals into France. The same reason why French business men use words like 'le schedule', 'le timing' and 'un shortcut' to impress on their willingness to forge ahead with 'le business'. A second reason is that it is a sort of 'officers' uniform. It marks out people who are ambitious, a message to the bosses that: 'I want to get ahead'. So in France, you have to choose. Suit person, or open necked shirt person?

'Zen' Massage

My wife does not have the most vigorous massage technique imaginable, so when a big strong man approached me in the airport and asked me if I would like a Zen massage, I had to give it some consideration.

The man pointed out to me that if I was stressed, it would be a very good way to relax, and since (1) I was having one of the most stressful weeks of my life, and (2) I had just retreated fuming from the Air France ticket desk after being told that the aeroplane I had hoped to catch in an hour wouldn't be leaving until four hours later because it was still 'the summer schedule' in which half the flights are cancelled, well, I felt like I ought to give it a go. What would I have spent the ten euros on otherwise? A nice bottle of Jurancon wine probably, from the vineyards just to the south of Pau airport.

Actually, I have never had a professional massage before, and I would never normally think of paying for one, so I guess this guy caught me on the hop.

The first surprise, as he led me behind a small screen, was that I wouldn't be lying on a divan bed in a private space, but rather, that I would be seated in some sort of folding contraption in the middle of the airport lounge, in full view of everyone who happened to be passing. As I settled myself down upon it, I immediately began to worry. It really wasn't very comfortable. The man spread a muslin cover on the upholstered head support and asked me to rest on it, face down. Suddenly, I was supporting the weight of my back on my neck, and my bum, under the force of displaced gravity, was sticking up in the air leaving my belly hanging out. Great! Not.

The massage began: pummelling of my neck and shoulders, rotation and squeezing of my arms until I felt all the blood trapped in the ends of my fingers, which he proceeded to squeeze with a snap of his fingers, as if removing some invisible bad spirit from my system. A bit like a Nigerian handshake, in fact. Next, kneading of the vertebrae, rapid pummelling of the vertebral column and every two minutes, a little sharp 'bleep bleep' of his digital timer, far from relaxing, to tell him to get a move on to the next item so that my ten euros would buy exactly ten minutes of his attention.

At the end of the session, he folded my arms up onto my head and asked me to get up. It was at this point that I became aware of sharp pains in my neck. Surely that couldn't be right? As I stood up, I realised that ten minutes in his company had left me feeling as if I had been lying in a cold draft for three hours.

But there he was in front of me, panting slightly from his physical exertions, a big smile on his face, asking me if I had enjoyed myself? Well, what could I say? No, I feel bloody awful, I should have said. Being English, however, and separated from reality by a thin veil of language and the characteristic restraint with which I continue my international relations, I merely responded: 'hmm, interesting thanks.' He looked at me, slightly put out not to have had a more positive response. 'You have to be careful with your back", he said, "there is a lot of stress in the middle there," he said, indicating the point where my upper body weight had been balanced like a fulcrum a few moment before.

"Are you English?" he asked. "Well, I was born in Scotland", I said, knowing that the French universally respond better when you say this. "Ahh", he said, "it is my dream to visit Ireland or Scotland. Probably Ireland. What do you think? Are the Irish more welcoming?" I had to agree they probably would be, although this is such a stupid generalisation it hardly bears thinking about. Then I told him that my parents were English. "The English are very proud" he said, "like the French." "The English and French don't get on very well. When I visited London I saw shops with signs outside saying 'No French!' What do you think of that?" Well, I had to say I thought it was stupid. I could also have mentioned that FNAC (France's largest book chain store) does not have an anthology of British poetry for sale in its online bookshop, but I doubt he would have understood where I was coming from. Both sides see what they want to see, and this fuels mutual suspicion to no particularly useful purpose.

I took my bad back and drowned my sorrows in a beer and a 'croque monsieur' (a toasted cheese and ham sandwich). After an hour or so, my neck began to feel better, and I began to daydream about buying a bottle of Jurancon from the nice little airport shop.